Yamaha Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This thread is for members to post their tech tips to share with others.
Please be sure to make it pertain to the particular subject matter.

Here is my contribution.

1. When installing handle bars (or anything on the bars for that matter), Take a piece of 80GRIT sand paper or Emory cloth and sand the hard edges off of the clamps and mounts. Then sand the inner part (where the bars go). Also when tightening them down MAKE SURE the space is even the whole way around the clamp so you have even pressure and little to no chance of slipping.

2. Anti-Seize or grease. Put this on any and every bolt you can.

3. Thread locking compound. If your worried a bolt or nut may vibrate loose. Use some thread locker 'em. Use BLUE thread locker for a bolt that may be removed often. Use RED for bolts that will only be removed once or twice over an extended period of time.

4. Grips. I'm sure you've all read the write up on how to float them off. So we will talk about re-installing them (or a new pair). MAKE SURE there is no dirt/dust where the grip will be going. If you cannot man-handle them on. use some spit. Stick your finger in your mouth and wiggle it around (HAHAH) and make some funny noises if you feel like it. Smear it inside the grip and on the bars and it should slide on easily. Another method is hairspray. Give it a shot down into the grip and slide it on. Carb cleaner can be used to the same effect. Last but not least SAFETY WIRE YOUR GRIPS. I've done this for YEARS and never had grip twist.

5. Chain maintenance. Get you and old toothbrush (or a GRUNGE brush), some mineral spirits, a rag, and something to lift your quad from the ground. Now take your rag, put some mineral spirits on it and wipe it over the chain. Then take your brush and SCRUB IT! Lastly clean up any residue and re-lube. Also ALWAYS make sure your chain deflection is set correctly. Adjust it with rider weight ON the quad. You can do this by laying stomach down on the seat and hanging over the back.

6. Steering stem clamp/bushing. Periodically remove and re-grease your stem clamp and bushings. Use a Marine Grade grease.

7. Save the shine. When washing your quad. Spray it down with a degreaser first and foremost. Wash the degreaser off. The use a rag and some dish-soap/water in a wash bucket and clean your quad till you feel satisfied BY HAND. Afterward, WAX your quad. Regular auto wax will work just fine. Just follow the directions on the product. Paste Wax works best.

8. LUBE YOUR CABLES! I cannot stress this enough! Every once in a while remove your cables and spray some WD-40 or cable lube into the jacket and work it until it drips out the other end.

9. Airfilters. Take your awesome K&n filter, and throw it in the garbage. Nothing works better in the dirt than a foam filter. Foam filters work best for anything actually. Periodically clean/re-oil your air filter using the correct oils. A pair of pantyhose makes a chap effective pre-filter also. And dont forget to grease your air-filter where it sits against the box. It makes a POSITIVE seal.

(BTW I expect to get much feedback about this tip)

10.Wires. Periodically check your wiring for anything that may be broke or chafed and re-pair as necessary. Also, anywhere there is a ground, remove it and sand to bare metal.

11. Spark plugs. Although it may still seem good replace it. If you ride every day, replace the plug about once every 1-2 months. Also everyone should be running what is called a "Resistor Plug"

12. Installing a clutch. It is best to replace everything when doing this. This inlcudes frictions/steels/springs/cable and a new lever if you wish. Soak the friction plates in whatever oil you use in your trans for at least 24hrs. before they will be installed. Also before install, take your friction discs, lay them on the floor (ONLY IF YOUR FLOOR IS CONCRETE!!!) and put your foot on them and scratch them around. BE SURE to clean them really good with brake parts cleaner before install. If you do not have a concrete garage floor, find something nearby that is concrete to do it with. DO NOT sand them. Another thing that works good is to sand-blast the steels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
nice write up cochise
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Pod Filters) Make sure once you've cleaned and oiled your filters to wipe all of the oil off the inside of the flange and off the carburetor bell. Use the narrowest hose clamp you can find to mount pods and put the clamp as far forward on the flange as possible. Using thes two tips will prevent the pods from falling off, which is one of the worst problems associated with them.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Flywheel Removal/Installation) Many of you may remove your flywheel for stator maintenance or installation of an adjustable timing plate. Always be sure to use the appropriate puller, available through your dealership or favorite parts supplier. Jaw pullers do not work so don't even try! When re-installing the flywheel be sure to use some water based valve lapping compound to lap the tapers together. You can use petrolium based as well, but I recommend the water based for ease of cleanup. This can be purchased at your local auto parts store. You will put a nice even film of the lapping compound on the crank taper and the flywheel taper. Place the flywheel on the crank (minus flywheel key), and rotate the flywheel on the crank using light inward preasure untill you feel some resistance to rotation. Remove the flywheel and clean both tapers thouroughly. You may now re-install the key and flywheel, I like to use a little bit of locktite on the taper but that's just preference. Torque the nut to spec and set your pickup coil gap (if adjustable on your model). Following this procedure will lessen your chance of walking the flywheel off the crank or shearing your flywheel key. This is especially important to do if you have an aftermarket crankshaft and/or flywheel on your machine do to taper variances.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
wave rotors= BAD dont run wave rotors in any muddy conditions or the mud will pack in the slots/ holes and wear out the brake pads reaaallyy fast.. also probably ruin the rotor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Soak the friction plates in whatever oil you use in your trans for at least 24hrs. before they will be installed. Also before install, take your friction discs, lay them on the floor (ONLY IF YOUR FLOOR IS CONCRETE!!!) and put your foot on them and scratch them around. BE SURE to clean them really good with brake parts cleaner before install. If you do not have a concrete garage floor, find something nearby that is concrete to do it with. DO NOT sand them.

UMMMMM doesnt the brake parts cleaner defeat the purpose of soaking them for 24 hours?!?!?!?! i dont agree with this tip in the least sorry....:ermm:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
UMMMMM doesnt the brake parts cleaner defeat the purpose of soaking them for 24 hours?!?!?!?! i dont agree with this tip in the least sorry....:ermm:
I think he was referring to the steels even though he said friction plates. But, I too disagree with the post. I've flat sanded the steels for years with no issues. I'd much prefer flat sanding on glass or granite than an uneven concrete floor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
the hand grips you can also use spray paint as it will dry up and make the grips stick better.
with the clutch plates, I have always used my thumb with slight pressure twisting emery cloth on the metal plates. I never did anything with the material itself. if it was glazed over I just bought new plates, cause usually that means theclutch was slipping excessively and overheated, meaning warped metal plates
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top