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Use the ratings as recommended by the manufacturer, but don't worry about the particular brand as the manufacturer will most likely recommend THEIR brand. If you don't know what sort of ratings the people that designed and built your engine recommend, you can either ask a bunch of people on here that have opinions, or you can call the people that built your bike and know what it was designed to run.

Petroleum or synthetic? Brand X or brand Y? Special additives designed for motorcycles or basic stuff from Walmart? Unless you're building racing engines, or plan on putting hundreds of thousands of miles on your sled with nary a rebuild, then as long as you CHANGE YOUR OIL AND FILTER AT THE RECOMMENDED INTERVALS OR BEFORE, it's really not relevant.

Some oils are better then others, to be sure! There's gobs and gibs of tests you can peruse on-line showing which is better then what. But from my experiences I can say that I have NEVER had to rebuild an engine due to the type of oil used. I have, however, been paid to rebuild many due to the service intervals being neglected or such stupid stuff as them being run with not enough oil, and run for long periods with dirty oil left in them, or other such neglectful practices.

So put whatever brand of oil in her that makes you feel good that meets the manufacturers specs, change it and the filter as recommended, stay up on your routine PM, and go for a ride and don't worry about it.
 

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Shell Rotella T full synthetic. Walmart has it by the gallon for about 18 bucks. We've used it in our GSXR and CBR race bikes for years, all of our street bikes, the Supermoto's we race and the minis. Only oil we use.
 

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Penzoil Full synthetic for my two stroke motors.
also Amsoil.
In the 4 stroke cases, Castrol, and Penzoil. Good enough for me.
 
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I am going to disagree with some of what has been said here..

REGARDLESS of Brand, Synthetic or petroleum, use a Motorcycle Specific oil with a JASO MA Rating, better yet, MA 2, but never MB.

In your Owners Manual, a Motorcycle oil is recommended but then it goes on to read. An automotive oil with an API SG/SH Rating may be used. A Higher API Rating may be used but MUST carry the JASO MA Rating.

API Ratings Do Not automatically Supercede a lower rating.

Also, M/C Specific oils will have a higgher ZDDP Content which is your anti-wear additive for your cam. If you have a roller cam, no worries, most bikes do not.

Rotella is a good oil... For Diesels... It does not have an SG/SH Rating and does not have the JASO MA on the label. Rotella has also just been reformulated and no longer has a CI rating and only the CJ-4 and does have friction modifiers. Also, it is a Hydro-Crack, not a True Synthetic which is why it can be purchased so cheap. Diesel oils are less expensive to produce anyhow.

Good isn't cheap
Cheap isn't good


Bob
 

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Bob,

I've used Amsoil, hell I was sponsored by them. It's good oil no doubt. For my personal applications it's a complete waste of money. For 90% of the racers out there it is as well.

We change our oil every day on the track, doesnt matter if it's our GSXR1K Superbike or the little Mini Motards our kids race.

Any decent grade oil is going to do it's job in that application. Our CBR60RR Endurance bike had 23,000 track miles on it before the engine gave up. 23,000 without a rebuild and only 2 clutches. Change your oil often and you'll get good results. Rotella is inexpensive enough we can afford to change every weekend, every day or every race. It does the job very well and I have never had a clutch slip issue. The new formulation is still not listed as Energy Conserving and from what I have found doesnt contain Moly. Moly is the friction modifier that kills wet clutches (after time).

I dont care what brand of oil, what magic it claims... if your racing your machine or running it hard changing the oil more often is far better than spending big money on expensive oils. I sell Spectro, Bel Ray, Repsol and the rest of the high dollar stuff, I still recommend and run Rotella. 5 years of racing Superbikes, MX, Supermoto and mini moto... never an engine failure.
 

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Castrol.......run it in everything motorized I've got.....including the lawn-mower.
 
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Bob,

I've used Amsoil, hell I was sponsored by them. It's good oil no doubt. For my personal applications it's a complete waste of money. For 90% of the racers out there it is as well.

We change our oil every day on the track, doesnt matter if it's our GSXR1K Superbike or the little Mini Motards our kids race.

Any decent grade oil is going to do it's job in that application. Our CBR60RR Endurance bike had 23,000 track miles on it before the engine gave up. 23,000 without a rebuild and only 2 clutches. Change your oil often and you'll get good results. Rotella is inexpensive enough we can afford to change every weekend, every day or every race. It does the job very well and I have never had a clutch slip issue. The new formulation is still not listed as Energy Conserving and from what I have found doesnt contain Moly. Moly is the friction modifier that kills wet clutches (after time).

I dont care what brand of oil, what magic it claims... if your racing your machine or running it hard changing the oil more often is far better than spending big money on expensive oils. I sell Spectro, Bel Ray, Repsol and the rest of the high dollar stuff, I still recommend and run Rotella. 5 years of racing Superbikes, MX, Supermoto and mini moto... never an engine failure.
5 years of racing Superbikes, MX, Supermoto and mini moto... never an engine failure

Our CBR60RR Endurance bike had 23,000 track miles on it before the engine gave up.


A little contradiction... LOL

Seriously, yes, 23 K is a good amount of miles on a track bike...

With no oil analysis, I can just about guarantee you are changing oil more often than necessary.. Cheap Insurance ? Maybe.. But through the use of oil analysis, my change intervals are not 3000, but 10,000 miles.

This will hold true whether it is a track or street bike and I know many racers that use oil analysis as a tool. Not only to see if the oil is good, but to 'see' the condition of the motor without teardowns.

Changing oil more frequently is not always better. For instance, there is a guy bragging about 100,000 miles in 4 yrs 7 months using nothing but Rotella.. Well, he changes every 2000 miles...

So, he winds up paying more for a petroleum oil (Rotella is petroleum regardless what it says) and filters as he has changed oil 5 times more often than I have and I run my bike a lot harder than he does.

On my Touring bike, which is air-cooled, I ride with the bags loaded, Tour-Pak loaded, pull a loaded trailer and sometimes 2 up. Going down the road at well over 2000 pounds and rarely getting out of 5th gear.

And that loaded trailer... Oil at 25 lbs per case and my large cooler full of whatever and 20 plus pounds of ice..

So I am very hard on my bike.. If I road empty, my change intervals would be 15,000 or more, verified by analysis previously.

REGARDLESS of Brand, Synthetic or petroleum, always use a Motorcycle Specific oil with a JASO MA Rating, better yet MA 2, but Never MB. If anyone tells you there is no difference between auto/diesel and M/C Specific oils, they have been misinformed and passing on Bad Information.

Oil, is the LifeBlood of your engine. The Oil Filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn't Cheap,
Cheap isn't The Best !


Bob
 

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5 years of racing Superbikes, MX, Supermoto and mini moto... never an engine failure

Our CBR60RR Endurance bike had 23,000 track miles on it before the engine gave up.


A little contradiction... LOL

Seriously, yes, 23 K is a good amount of miles on a track bike...

With no oil analysis, I can just about guarantee you are changing oil more often than necessary.. Cheap Insurance ? Maybe.. But through the use of oil analysis, my change intervals are not 3000, but 10,000 miles.

This will hold true whether it is a track or street bike and I know many racers that use oil analysis as a tool. Not only to see if the oil is good, but to 'see' the condition of the motor without teardowns.

Changing oil more frequently is not always better. For instance, there is a guy bragging about 100,000 miles in 4 yrs 7 months using nothing but Rotella.. Well, he changes every 2000 miles...

So, he winds up paying more for a petroleum oil (Rotella is petroleum regardless what it says) and filters as he has changed oil 5 times more often than I have and I run my bike a lot harder than he does.

On my Touring bike, which is air-cooled, I ride with the bags loaded, Tour-Pak loaded, pull a loaded trailer and sometimes 2 up. Going down the road at well over 2000 pounds and rarely getting out of 5th gear.

And that loaded trailer... Oil at 25 lbs per case and my large cooler full of whatever and 20 plus pounds of ice..

So I am very hard on my bike.. If I road empty, my change intervals would be 15,000 or more, verified by analysis previously.

REGARDLESS of Brand, Synthetic or petroleum, always use a Motorcycle Specific oil with a JASO MA Rating, better yet MA 2, but Never MB. If anyone tells you there is no difference between auto/diesel and M/C Specific oils, they have been misinformed and passing on Bad Information.

Oil, is the LifeBlood of your engine. The Oil Filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn't Cheap,
Cheap isn't The Best !


Bob
Hi Bob,
I'm glad I don't have so much choice .... The 2 strokes I have run whatever the garage has on hand (the FS1 has 20,000m on the dial) and the four strokes run on a synthetic oil ... only engine failure was the DRZ450 , that was a gearbox bearing and due to incorrect chain tension rather than oil .... so why wory about the brand ?
Regards Jim
 
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Bob,

I've used Amsoil, hell I was sponsored by them. It's good oil no doubt. For my personal applications it's a complete waste of money. For 90% of the racers out there it is as well.

We change our oil every day on the track, doesnt matter if it's our GSXR1K Superbike or the little Mini Motards our kids race.

Any decent grade oil is going to do it's job in that application. Our CBR60RR Endurance bike had 23,000 track miles on it before the engine gave up. 23,000 without a rebuild and only 2 clutches. Change your oil often and you'll get good results. Rotella is inexpensive enough we can afford to change every weekend, every day or every race. It does the job very well and I have never had a clutch slip issue. The new formulation is still not listed as Energy Conserving and from what I have found doesnt contain Moly. Moly is the friction modifier that kills wet clutches (after time).

I dont care what brand of oil, what magic it claims... if your racing your machine or running it hard changing the oil more often is far better than spending big money on expensive oils. I sell Spectro, Bel Ray, Repsol and the rest of the high dollar stuff, I still recommend and run Rotella. 5 years of racing Superbikes, MX, Supermoto and mini moto... never an engine failure.
So you are telling me that all the NASCAR, Superbikes, CORR, Monster Trucks such as Grave Digger, F-1 Champ Boats, Off Shore and the rest that use Synthetic oil are wrong ?

Chances are you were not using Oil Analysis like many racers do to see not only if the oil is good, but to see the effects of it on wear under extreme conditions.

Also, dyno runs will show increased HP over Petroleum as well.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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So you are telling me that all the NASCAR, Superbikes, CORR, Monster Trucks such as Grave Digger, F-1 Champ Boats, Off Shore and the rest that use Synthetic oil are wrong ?

Chances are you were not using Oil Analysis like many racers do to see not only if the oil is good, but to see the effects of it on wear under extreme conditions.

Also, dyno runs will show increased HP over Petroleum as well.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
He did say 90%, not ALL racers. Plus the majority of the race styles you mentioned above, don't run their engines for 100k miles. They run their engines for 1 race and then rebuild/replace their engines after each race to make sure they won't have problems in the next race (as far as I know).
 

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In my book :-
if the engine doesn't seize or self destruct the oil you are using is fine. Some loyalty to a brand will come from that, or else we would all use yamalube ? Over the years I have seen this argument loads of times .... at one point Yamaha's lube was repackaged belray oil, belray was good Yamaha's was bad ... same oil from the same factory ... Yamaha UK dropped selling Yamaha oil in favour of a tie up with an oil company (which brings in revenue) say Motul :ermm:
Regards Jim
 
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In my book:

It is the oil and filter that gives the best overall performance and gives you the best "Cost of Ownership"

For me, that is AMSOIL. I have 0ver 350,000 miles on my work van with oil changes between 25,000 and 43,000 miles.

43,000 on my bike in 2 yrs with oil changes betwen 9000 and 11,000 miles.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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honestly bob i skipped everything you said in this thread simply because you sell amsoil and to the extent that it is your username.... oil arguements are like trainwrecks... that is with out a distributor in the mix...
 

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In my book:

It is the oil and filter that gives the best overall performance and gives you the best "Cost of Ownership"

For me, that is AMSOIL. I have 0ver 350,000 miles on my work van with oil changes between 25,000 and 43,000 miles.

43,000 on my bike in 2 yrs with oil changes betwen 9000 and 11,000 miles.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
Hi Bob,
I guess you misunderstood what I said hence the odd start (echo) to your post 'In my book' which in the UK merely means 'In my opinion' but going back more years than I care to remember Oil was always an emotive subject (duckham's advert pointing out that they had an Austin A series engine covering 100,000 miles without failure etc). back in the 60's when R1's (YR1's) ran on 30 wt engine oil Duckham's oils would cause plug whiskering & Castrol's hard carbon deposits, later when oil developed it became that all oils did the same job .. so I guess this is still true today and most points are brand loyalty. As your name here is 'Amsoil Factory Connection' I guess you prefer that brand, which does not detract from the point that other oils may be of the same spec.
Regards Jim
 

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:applause:
Oh Dear the FS1 is now going to go ape unless I run Am Soil ? .. does AM Soil= American Soil ? That sounds bad for an oil company. but I guess it's fine ... do I get freebie's for promoting AM Soil ? ... which incorrectly could be translated as AM Dirt !!!! as in soil = dirt ...
Sorry
Regards Jim
 
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