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Discussion Starter #1
Bike was running fine. Figured it was time to change oil, filter and final drive oil to get ready for season. After changing with oil's spec'd in owners manual bike started up fine. Checked levels of fluid looked spot on. Went to take test drive. Put it in First after warm up and the bike lurched forward and stalled. Put it back in neutral, started her up and went to put in first and same thing. Has been that way every since. Cant ride. I checked to make sure that it wasn't a faulty Kick-stand switch by creating a loop plug and unplugging the Kick-stand switch applying the loop. Same outcome.
I used SAE80 80w-90 Bel-Ray for the final drive and Bel-Ray 10w30 for the Oil change. These are the brands that the Mechanic was using, i checked my paperwork from last service.
I also checked the clutch cable which doesn't seem frayed or worn. The gap is spot on at the clutch handle and clutch handle free play.
Bike Idles fine and rev's with no hiccups...
Im at wits end.
 

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Bike was running fine. Figured it was time to change oil, filter and final drive oil to get ready for season. After changing with oil's spec'd in owners manual bike started up fine. Checked levels of fluid looked spot on. Went to take test drive. Put it in First after warm up and the bike lurched forward and stalled. Put it back in neutral, started her up and went to put in first and same thing. Has been that way every since. Cant ride. I checked to make sure that it wasn't a faulty Kick-stand switch by creating a loop plug and unplugging the Kick-stand switch applying the loop. Same outcome.
I used SAE80 80w-90 Bel-Ray for the final drive and Bel-Ray 10w30 for the Oil change. These are the brands that the Mechanic was using, i checked my paperwork from last service.
I also checked the clutch cable which doesn't seem frayed or worn. The gap is spot on at the clutch handle and clutch handle free play.
Bike Idles fine and rev's with no hiccups...
Im at wits end.
Do you mean you jam it into first and it launches without letting out the clutch?
OR it dies when you let out the clutch?
Did you try with the kickstand just unplugged not shorted?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi and thanks for responding.
Yes, You don't have to jam it into first. Its just like if you were normally going to put it into first, smooth shift with clutch held in (without letting out clutch) and it launches forward then dies/stalls immediately. Its all a quick action. No i didn't try the kickstand just unplugged, Didn't think of that. I will try that today and any other input that you may have. Greatly appreciated..I will post as soon as i finish trying.
 

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Hi and thanks for responding.
Yes, You don't have to jam it into first. Its just like if you were normally going to put it into first, smooth shift with clutch held in (without letting out clutch) and it launches forward then dies/stalls immediately. Its all a quick action. No i didn't try the kickstand just unplugged, Didn't think of that. I will try that today and any other input that you may have. Greatly appreciated..I will post as soon as i finish trying.
That is so very strange. Something must be wrong with the clutch. I think I would double check the cable then adjust some slack out of it and see if that helps.

If you put it in first not running and try to push it with the clutch in, will it move?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Sorry for delay, got called into work and couldnt test. Testing today will follow up with results on the following

Pushing bike with the clutch in (in 1st gear) not running (doesn't run anyway), will it move?
Testing Sidestand switch without jumper in main harness connector (aka unplugged)

Thanks again, Update in a few
OK
I Put the Bike in 1st Gear and Held Clutch Lever in and it DID NOT MOVE FREELY
I released the Clutch Lever (out) a it did not move.
Does this mean the clutch lever cable needs to be adjusted?

Going to take off fuel tank to take off the jumper from the sidestand switch next.

Didnt matter without jumper off of sidestand harness. still the same outcome Also did a Ohm test on switch from plug end and switch passed continuity test.
 

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Sorry for delay, got called into work and couldnt test. Testing today will follow up with results on the following

Pushing bike with the clutch in (in 1st gear) not running (doesn't run anyway), will it move?
Testing Sidestand switch without jumper in main harness connector (aka unplugged)

Thanks again, Update in a few
OK
I Put the Bike in 1st Gear and Held Clutch Lever in and it DID NOT MOVE FREELY
I released the Clutch Lever (out) a it did not move.
Does this mean the clutch lever cable needs to be adjusted?

Going to take off fuel tank to take off the jumper from the sidestand switch next.

Didnt matter without jumper off of sidestand harness. still the same outcome Also did a Ohm test on switch from plug end and switch passed continuity test.
Forget electronics, it has to be a clutch problem, specifically not disengaging properly. Try adjusting slack out of the cable first. There should be a tiny bit of slack just so it's not being "pulled" by itself. Over time the cable will stretch, so taking up that extra slack should help.
Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey,,,,hope all is well,,,
OK I put the bike up on bike lift. Ran the bike free wheeled the back wheel so it would spin in gear. I started it up in neutral and held clutch in and put it in first. The back wheel started to spin and kept spinning even with the clutch held in. I rev'd her up and switched thru some of the gears held in the clutch and each shift and felt it not reacting to the clutch lever at all. Lowered RPMs to shift down then just hit the kill switch cause could tell the clutch handle in wasnt engaging. Seems like you said that it is prob the clutch cable to loose.
(just for the hell of it i did test the theory on the Kickstand switch and while running i kicked it up and down and few times and when you kick it down the bike does die immediately so that seems to be working as designed :eek:) )
Back to the adjusting the clutch. I did try to adjust the slack at the clutch lever but that made no difference at all the back wheel just kept spinning like i didn't even have the lever held in. (tried stopping the tire from spinning with clutch lever held in with a wedge to make sure it wasn't just free spinning)
I never really adjusted the cable down near the trans where the cable attaches to the push lever axle.
is there good procedure to follow while doing this. Im just afraid that i will not get it to a point where clutch in releases and clutch out go, ya know what i mean...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK... i think maybe i figured it out...possibly.... no matter how much i move the cable around it didnt make a difference. (i also marked where it was previously on the threads just in case) at the
I forgot that there is a clutch switch under the bottom of the lever body. Could that be the culprit????
is there a way to test that?
 

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OK... i think maybe i figured it out...possibly.... no matter how much i move the cable around it didnt make a difference. (i also marked where it was previously on the threads just in case) at the
I forgot that there is a clutch switch under the bottom of the lever body. Could that be the culprit????
is there a way to test that?
Could be but I don't know for sure what you mean. Clutch switch?? If you are talking an electrical switch then no, should not matter at all.

The important thing is the lever on the handlebars must pull the lever on the engine via the cable. And it must pull it far enough to disengage the clutch in the engine, this means the cable can't be to loose to pull it all the way.
Is this it?

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/659411/Yamaha-V-Star-Xvs650s.html?page=60
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Again not sure what it does but I found it on ebay
Manufacturer Part#
3YX-82917-01-00
Item Number
OEM149000
This Part Replaces
3YX-82917-00-00

It said clutch lever left switch
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hate to say this but do you think there is a possibility that the clutch plates are stuck together ? And that is why even with the clutch lever pulled in the clutch is still engaged and spinning the shaft and tire?
After playing with the clutch cable without a different outcome I'm starting to think maybe......
 

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I hate to say this but do you think there is a possibility that the clutch plates are stuck together ? And that is why even with the clutch lever pulled in the clutch is still engaged and spinning the shaft and tire?
After playing with the clutch cable without a different outcome I'm starting to think maybe......
Well not likely but anything is possible. Sounds like you need to pull the cover and replace the clutch, or at least have a look at why it won't disengage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry for the delay on update. I didn't pull the cover off the clutch assembly but what i did was take the clutch lever and tied a string around the lever and the hand grip to hold it in. I kept it in for a day or so. I had the bike on a lift to keep the back wheel off the ground. I started the bike and warmed it up nice and hot. Then i put it in first and wheel started to spin (clutch still pulled in with string) i worked the throttle (not to hard) for a couple mins and the rear wheel stopped spinning. I untied the clutch handle and sat on bike and worked through the gears up and down working the throttle not over rev'ing the engine. I did this for 3 consecutive days, retying the clutch handle to hand grip each night. This seemed to un-stick the clutch/friction plates. I took it for 2 small rides and seems to be ok. I kept the clutch tied while the bike sat each time and also the 2 days it sat in the garage overnight after i took the rides. raining today so not taking it out. Will see how it is in a day or 2 when outside dries and i can test again.
 

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Sorry for the delay on update. I didn't pull the cover off the clutch assembly but what i did was take the clutch lever and tied a string around the lever and the hand grip to hold it in. I kept it in for a day or so. I had the bike on a lift to keep the back wheel off the ground. I started the bike and warmed it up nice and hot. Then i put it in first and wheel started to spin (clutch still pulled in with string) i worked the throttle (not to hard) for a couple mins and the rear wheel stopped spinning. I untied the clutch handle and sat on bike and worked through the gears up and down working the throttle not over rev'ing the engine. I did this for 3 consecutive days, retying the clutch handle to hand grip each night. This seemed to un-stick the clutch/friction plates. I took it for 2 small rides and seems to be ok. I kept the clutch tied while the bike sat each time and also the 2 days it sat in the garage overnight after i took the rides. raining today so not taking it out. Will see how it is in a day or 2 when outside dries and i can test again.
Wow, the plates must be sticking together, very strange! I can't think of any other reason why this works. Hopefully it will fix itself in a sense.

EDIT: I googled this and some say it can be caused buy the clutch basket having grooves worn in it from lots of use. They say you can usually file them down if you don't want to buy a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah,
i'm going to see how it goes and if it starts sticking again i will probably just replace the plates.
Thanks for all your help... I couldnt have got his far without this forum and your input and direction.
Thanks again...

Keep safe and healthy in this crazy time and safe riding.
 

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mine did that first time i started it after buying it used. found out i simply didnt let it warm up long enough.
 

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mine did that first time i started it after buying it used. found out i simply didnt let it warm up long enough.
Turns out my old 1994 warrior now does this after a clutch replacement and it's kind of common. Warming it up helps and after one good jolt it breaks free and works great the rest of the day. So strange, it's like the plates are stuck together.
 
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