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Pushed the starter button this afternoon and the TX roared into life, very loudly with those pipes. So, the single points cam works beautifully. PMA conversion works well as does the dual output coil, cable splitter, remote filter, cooler and ignition wiring. It's running a little lean at the moment due to the pods and exhaust, so I'll have to rejet before syncing. Very happy chappy.

 

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If you've set the float level in your carbs and want to check the actual fuel level , you'll need to access the float bowl. Most bike carbs have a plug on the bottom for emptying the fuel. If you have a spare plug, mount it in your lathe chuck and drill a suitable size hole through it. Don't have a lathe? Too easy mount the plug in the bench drill chuck and a drill underneath in a drill vice, or something similar and drill a hole through the plug. Don't have a bench drill? Too easy, mount the plug in your hand drill and the drill in a vice and drill through. Do not place a drill bit in the drill and drill through the plug, the hole will not go through centrally. If you want an accurate size hole, always use a pilot close to the finish size hole first, yes, even with very small holes. You'll need to either use a centre drill or centre pop the plug first. Then find a barb to plug in the hole, drill the through hole using the same method. For a leak proof join you'll need a barb10mm bigger than the hole. For example a 4.5 mm drill is actually somewhere around 4.34mm and drills a hole around 4.5mm or slightly smaller using pilot first, so you'll need a barb around .10mm bigger. You can turn it down on a lathe, or, turn to size using a drill and file.

 

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Synced the carbs and checked the PMA today. Bike runs beautifully now, idles nicely, revs cleanly, no spitting or hesitation. PMA/reg/rect output is 14.6 volts, so happy with that as well. Timing is spot on on both cylinders, so the single points cam also works well and the filter and cooler deliver a good oil supply with no leaks. Fancy that, all the engine mods worked as planned! This is my homemade manometer I use for syncing, super easy to use, gives a good, stable reading.

Now it's back to cycle parts. I was going to spoke the wheels next, but can't get any stainless spokes for the rear wheel, so I'll have to work on something else: I've been thinking of hunting around for a clagged 650 motor, I'm missing working on motors already.