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post #1 of 4 Old 07-01-2020, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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Grizzly 350 Blows Solenoid Fuse Immediately

So I'm working on a 2008 Grizzly 350 4x4 for a friend...Originally I was just going to clean up the carb and get rid of fouled fuel, but after getting her running the ATV died...But when I put it back in neutral there is no neutral light, same goes for reverse. Furthermore, even with the key turned off, when I go to install a new 30 amp fuse in the solenoid, it blows immediately...I must have gone through 2 or 3 fuses. I've read that the issue is either that the ground is contacting metal somewhere between the negative battery terminal and the ground point...Or, I've also read that it could be the CDI box or the volt regulator....Has anyone else run into this issue? And is there a definitive fix? I don't mind going through and plugging and unplugging some parts to track down the issue, but I really don't want to have to remove all the plastics and track the ground from A to B...Any and all info and advice will be greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 4 Old 07-01-2020, 07:55 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDBird View Post
So I'm working on a 2008 Grizzly 350 4x4 for a friend...Originally I was just going to clean up the carb and get rid of fouled fuel, but after getting her running the ATV died...But when I put it back in neutral there is no neutral light, same goes for reverse. Furthermore, even with the key turned off, when I go to install a new 30 amp fuse in the solenoid, it blows immediately...I must have gone through 2 or 3 fuses. I've read that the issue is either that the ground is contacting metal somewhere between the negative battery terminal and the ground point...Or, I've also read that it could be the CDI box or the volt regulator....Has anyone else run into this issue? And is there a definitive fix? I don't mind going through and plugging and unplugging some parts to track down the issue, but I really don't want to have to remove all the plastics and track the ground from A to B...Any and all info and advice will be greatly appreciated!
It is most likely a short to ground. That is the first thing to check for sure anyway. Give it a good look over, I bet you'll find something.

Note: NOT the negative cable, it is supposed to be grounded. Look from your fuse on down the line...It could be that a wire's insulation is worn down and touching the frame. Look for that for sure.
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post #3 of 4 Old 07-09-2020, 03:47 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the advice Scott, I actually solved the problem of the fuse popping immediately, and am now on to dealing with another issue...I'm not sure what it was, but the first time around there was no break in any of the wires...I forgot to add in the original post, that along with the popping fuse and no N or R light, I had no headlights and no electric start...The fix for all of these issues was a new solenoid and a new volt regulator. That cured the fuse pop, N & R lights, and was able to start it right up....However, like an absolute dumba%#, I did not zip tie the loom after the fix...I had the atv running and idling beautifully, then I went around to the backside of my house, hooked up trailer, and by the time I made it out front to load up, atv had died....After I discovered no N or R light or electric start button AGAIN (but I do have headlights this time), I disassembled atv AGAIN and found what you had mentioned, a scorched loom with a few wires roasted down to the copper....I hit the exposed wires with liquid electrical tape but I am still lacking N & R lights and electric start....I'm going to replace same parts tomorow (Volt Reg & Solenoid) and prey that cures the issue...I realize that I'm not getting the electric start because of no Neutral light, but I tested both the N and R with a light meter today, but since the N and R switches are activated by grounding, I connected light meter clip to positive battery terminal, and checked the N & R bulb sockets, and the light meter turned on...So do you know why I wouldn't be getting the N & R bulbs to turn on? And do you have any idea where the other power source is coming from that allows the bulbs to light up, and triggers the electric start to function properly? Like I said, I'm preying that replacing these parts tomorow corrects all these issues! And I will be double insulating and zip tying loom with extra care this time around! I appreciate any and all input from everybody and anybody! Let me know your thoughts!
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post #4 of 4 Old 07-09-2020, 06:32 PM
 
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Originally Posted by JDBird View Post
Thanks for the advice Scott, I actually solved the problem of the fuse popping immediately, and am now on to dealing with another issue...I'm not sure what it was, but the first time around there was no break in any of the wires...I forgot to add in the original post, that along with the popping fuse and no N or R light, I had no headlights and no electric start...The fix for all of these issues was a new solenoid and a new volt regulator. That cured the fuse pop, N & R lights, and was able to start it right up....However, like an absolute dumba%#, I did not zip tie the loom after the fix...I had the atv running and idling beautifully, then I went around to the backside of my house, hooked up trailer, and by the time I made it out front to load up, atv had died....After I discovered no N or R light or electric start button AGAIN (but I do have headlights this time), I disassembled atv AGAIN and found what you had mentioned, a scorched loom with a few wires roasted down to the copper....I hit the exposed wires with liquid electrical tape but I am still lacking N & R lights and electric start....I'm going to replace same parts tomorow (Volt Reg & Solenoid) and prey that cures the issue...I realize that I'm not getting the electric start because of no Neutral light, but I tested both the N and R with a light meter today, but since the N and R switches are activated by grounding, I connected light meter clip to positive battery terminal, and checked the N & R bulb sockets, and the light meter turned on...So do you know why I wouldn't be getting the N & R bulbs to turn on? And do you have any idea where the other power source is coming from that allows the bulbs to light up, and triggers the electric start to function properly? Like I said, I'm preying that replacing these parts tomorow corrects all these issues! And I will be double insulating and zip tying loom with extra care this time around! I appreciate any and all input from everybody and anybody! Let me know your thoughts!
If I had an electrical schematic I could figure it out. It could be that the regulator is more than a regulator and it controls the starting too, you may have fried it with the short. In other words the n and r switches are good, the power is good, but the reg is fried it won't send the start solenoid the voltage to let it start. I'll guess the new parts will fix it as long as the wiring is good now.
Check the fuses again too....

I'll do a quick search for a schematic and let you know.

I found something, check that ignition fuse for sure, it powers the neutral light and just about everything else. I hope you didn't fry the CDI box. CHECK ALL FUSES.

If this diagram is correct the starter relay is gets it power from the CDI box, the starter switch grounds the relay. Again, check all wires and fuses, if it comes down to it you might be buying a CDI box. You don't want to buy one for no reason like you missed a fuse or wire. Hopefully the parts that are coming will fix it.

Did I mention check all the fuses?

http://www.maultechatv.com/techguide...ruin%20350.pdf
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