Thanks for the advice Scott, I actually solved the problem of the fuse popping immediately, and am now on to dealing with another issue...I'm not sure what it was, but the first time around there was no break in any of the wires...I forgot to add in the original post, that along with the popping fuse and no N or R light, I had no headlights and no electric start...The fix for all of these issues was a new solenoid and a new volt regulator. That cured the fuse pop, N & R lights, and was able to start it right up....However, like an absolute dumba%#, I did not zip tie the loom after the fix...I had the atv running and idling beautifully, then I went around to the backside of my house, hooked up trailer, and by the time I made it out front to load up, atv had died....After I discovered no N or R light or electric start button AGAIN (but I do have headlights this time), I disassembled atv AGAIN and found what you had mentioned, a scorched loom with a few wires roasted down to the copper....I hit the exposed wires with liquid electrical tape but I am still lacking N & R lights and electric start....I'm going to replace same parts tomorow (Volt Reg & Solenoid) and prey that cures the issue...I realize that I'm not getting the electric start because of no Neutral light, but I tested both the N and R with a light meter today, but since the N and R switches are activated by grounding, I connected light meter clip to positive battery terminal, and checked the N & R bulb sockets, and the light meter turned on...So do you know why I wouldn't be getting the N & R bulbs to turn on? And do you have any idea where the other power source is coming from that allows the bulbs to light up, and triggers the electric start to function properly? Like I said, I'm preying that replacing these parts tomorow corrects all these issues! And I will be double insulating and zip tying loom with extra care this time around! I appreciate any and all input from everybody and anybody! Let me know your thoughts!
If I had an electrical schematic I could figure it out. It could be that the regulator is more than a regulator and it controls the starting too, you may have fried it with the short. In other words the n and r switches are good, the power is good, but the reg is fried it won't send the start solenoid the voltage to let it start. I'll guess the new parts will fix it as long as the wiring is good now.
Check the fuses again too....
I'll do a quick search for a schematic and let you know.
I found something, check that ignition fuse for sure, it powers the neutral light and just about everything else. I hope you didn't fry the CDI box. CHECK ALL FUSES.
If this diagram is correct the starter relay is gets it power from the CDI box, the starter switch grounds the relay. Again, check all wires and fuses, if it comes down to it you might be buying a CDI box. You don't want to buy one for no reason like you missed a fuse or wire. Hopefully the parts that are coming will fix it.
Did I mention check all the fuses?